Italian classics through the eyes of Glen Ballis on Bolshaya Nikitskaya. An emphasis on seasonality (the summer minestrone with chanterelles is still unforgettable), soothing, life-affirming breakfasts (open until 1:00 PM on weekdays and until 2:00 PM on weekends), a bar menu overseen by the sensible Maxim Gorelik, and a laconic menu that takes the pain out of choosing. Laconicism, in Ballis’s case, is a great move, as you’ll want to come back to those salmon ravioli and gnocchi with black caviar forever.
